The Far South (Patagonia)
Patagonia is the setting for some
of the world's greatest adventures.
Even if we don't know much about
the area, its name dwells in our
subconscious, whispering in our
ear untold stories about this far
corner of the world.
|
 |
We imagine
vast stretches of silent wilderness, tempestuous
seas, and wind-blown loneliness.
The first Europeans to
lay eyes on this land were led by Ferdinand
Magellan, the first explorer to cross the
perilous Straits that bear his name today.
His expedition named the continent Land
of the Patagons, or Big Feet, because of
the large footprints they found in the snow,
giving rise to the myth of a race of giant
Patagonians. They saw the smoke of native
fires darkening the southern horizon, so
they named this region Tierra del Fuego,
or the Land of Fire. Thus began the legend
of Patagonia.
 |
The
indigenous groups that lived in Tierra
del Fuego fully deserved to become
legendary, being the world's first
and greatest adventurers. |
Their arrival in Tierra
del Fuego was the final stop on the longest
human migration ever. They had arrived at
the end of the world, where the Andes sink
into the sea and glaciers creep towards
the shore.
With nowhere else to go,
they stayed, fishing from their canoes along
the coastline, gathering shellfish, and
hunting guanacos and rheas (South American
ostriches) on the pampas. Photographs from
early in the century show a Stone Age culture
where extremes had crystallized: It was
the end of the road for history's longest
wandering people.
Protected from the rain
on the east side of the Andes, the Patagonian
pampas are an enormous desert; some say
it's one of the world's five largest.
On
the west side of the Andes lies a
different world. Here, both the Central
Valley and the Coastal Range have
dropped into the ocean. What were
once glacial valleys are now fjords,
and what were mountain peaks are now
islands. |
 |
Erosion along the coast
has exposed the sources of hot springs,
while the huge glaciers continue to break
up the landscape, making sea or air travel
through the region a necessity. Large forests
stretch over the Andes Mountains from the
Pacific coast to the edge of the continent,
crossed by winding emerald-green rivers
that carry glacial sediment to the sea,
creating a habitat for reckless trout and
salmon.
This vast territory is
really two separate regions divided by the
Southern Ice Fields.
Northern Patagonia is one
of the last great wilderness areas in the
world. It is reached by a gravel road known
as the Carretera Austral, the Austral, or
Southern, Highway, completed in 1988. However,
overland access to the road is not yet complete,
and travelers on this Southern Highway must
board several ferries to cross the mouths
of the great fjords.
Here, the port of Chaitén
provides access to the north end of the
Austral Highway, where the rafting and fly
fishing are among the best in the world,
and visitors can take cruises to see the
glaciers and island hot springs. Farther
south lies the city of Coyhaique, the capital
of the Aisén Region, an ideal spot
for fly fishing and for organizing overland
trips to the southern part of the Austral
Highway, to General Carrera Lake, and the
Ice Fields.
South of the Ice Fields,
the Magallanes Region is a world apart,
where vast expanses of pampas meet the snowy
Andes peaks. Paine Towers National Park
-a World Biosphere Reserve- is the most
famous of all the conservation areas in
the Magallanes Region, and protects ecosystems
that provide habitats for guanacos, foxes,
rheas (South American ostriches), and flamingoes.
South of the national park lies Puerto Natales,
the port for the ferries coming south from
Puerto Montt. It is used as a base from
which visitors take hikes, ride horses,
board glacier cruises, go on overland excursions,
and go kayaking or white water rafting.
Punta Arenas is the capital
of the Magallanes Region. Across from the
Straits of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego,
Punta Arenas is the main starting point
for cruises and flights to Tierra del Fuego,
the Beagle Channel, Navarino Island, Cape
Horn, and Antarctica.
|